A warm, layered table runner made of interlocking leaf-shaped motifs in rich autumn tones. This design features rust orange, mustard gold and deep brown motifs joined into a radiating medallion that doubles as a centerpiece or runner. The textured stitches and pointed leaf edges create a sculptural, three-dimensional look that lays beautifully on a table. Perfect for holiday tables, seasonal decor, or as a handmade gift for a cozy home.
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— Center Medallion :
Round 1 :
Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 7 dc into ring. Sl st to top of ch-3. (8)
Round 2 :
2 dc in each st around. (16)
Round 3 :
(1 dc, 2 dc in next st) x 8. (24)
Round 4 :
(2 dc, 2 dc in next st) x 8. (32)
Round 5 :
(3 dc, 2 dc in next st) x 8. (40)
Round 6-9 :
1 dc in each st around (40). Work even for four rounds to build body of medallion.
Info :
Ensure center rounds are neat and lie flat. If curling occurs, block the center before proceeding with point formation. Use stitch marker in first st of each round for counting.
Round 10 :
To begin the eight points: *Work 5 dc in next 5 sts, ch 2, sl st in next st* repeat from * to * 8 times around. This creates 8 small lobes separated by ch-2 gaps for point construction. (40 base dc remain incorporated into lobes)
Info :
When you work the ch-2 spaces, these act as position markers for later pointed petals. Keep them consistent and count the lobes as units (1 through 8).
Round 11 :
Working into the first lobe only: ch 1, sc in base next st, (hdc, dc, fpdc, dc, hdc) all in the 5-dc lobe to form a raised vein and fuller petal; sl st into the ch-2 gap. Repeat this petal build into each of the 8 lobes around. (Petal clusters anchored to 40 sts, but you are shaping 8 petals)
Round 12 :
Between each petal, work: ch 3, sc in tip of petal (top st), ch 3, sl st in ch-2 gap to create a small picot-like spacer. Repeat for all 8 petals. This yields a star-like medallion with clear points.
Info :
If your petals are too tight, work the fpdc more loosely so petals sit slightly raised. Blocking will also open up the ch-3 spacers for a softer look.
Round 13 :
Change to color A (rust orange) for the first ring of leaf motifs (if you prefer a solid center, remain in the original color). To change color, finish last sl st of Round 12 with the new yarn and pull through. Ch 1, sc evenly around the outer edge of each petal and into each ch-3 space, working 5 sc per petal tip to form foundation for attaching motifs. Maintain a total of 40 sc (40).
Round 14 :
1 sc in each st around (40). This evens the edge and prepares for motif attachment points.
Round 15 :
Begin subtle texture: *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st* repeat around (40). This alternation creates a ribbed background that reads like leaf veins between points.
Info :
Keep fpdc and bpdc stitches consistent in height. Use the same yarn strand and do not twist stitches when inserting into post stitches.
Round 16 :
1 dc in each st around (40). This will strengthen the edge and provide good anchoring points for first ring of leaf motifs to be joined to the medallion.
Round 17 :
*(ch 5, sl st into the 3rd dc of the next petal cluster to create a loop), 1 sc in next 3 sts* repeat around. These ch-5 loops act as joining loops for the first ring of motifs. Keep count so you finish with 8 loops matching the petals.
Info :
Mark the center top of the medallion and label the loop 1 so joining motifs are oriented consistently. This ring will accept one side of each leaf motif for secure join-as-you-go attachment.
Round 18 :
Optional decorative round: sl st into each ch-5 loop and work 7 sc around each loop to build a small cup for motif joins (8 small cups). Fasten off and weave ends neatly. The center medallion is now ready to receive leaf motifs around each petal tip.
Info :
Blocking the medallion now will help the cups sit flat and make motif joining easier. Use pins and steam or spray-block lightly and let dry completely.
— Leaf Motif (Make 36 - assorted colors) :
Note :
Each leaf motif is worked in rounds and finishes as a pointed diamond/leaf with a raised center vein. Make three color groups: Rust (16 motifs), Mustard (12 motifs), Brown (8 motifs) — layout map provided in assembly instructions. Use same hook and consistent tension for all motifs.
Round 1 :
Make a magic ring. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), work 7 hdc into the ring; sl st to top of ch-2. (8)
Round 2 :
2 hdc in each st around. (16)
Round 3 :
(1 hdc, 2 hdc in next st) x 8. (24)
Info :
We are building a flat diamond/leaf base. Use hdc for a slightly dense fabric that is easy to texture with front post stitches later.
Round 4 :
Change to dc for texture: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *skip next st, (3 dc in next st) to form a small cluster, skip next st, dc in next st* repeat around. You should have 6 small clusters separated by single dc, producing small bumps where vein stitches will be placed. Maintain a total of 24 working spaces but cluster groups create raised topology.
Round 5 :
Ch 1, sc in each st and across clusters (treat each cluster as three sts when counting) to clean edge (24). Finish with sl st to join.
Round 6 :
Begin the diamond shaping: ch 2, hdc in next 5 sts, [hdc2tog over next 2 sts] repeat one time to create a slight narrowing at one edge, then work hdc in next 5 sts, ch 2, sl st to beginning. This round begins to form the leaf tip. Work evenly so both sides mirror each other. (24)
Info :
If you prefer a sharper point, substitute dc for hdc in the first and last 2 sts of the round to pull the fabric into a more defined tip.
Round 7 :
Change to alternate texture color (optional contrast yarn for vein) or stay in the same color. Work a central raised vein by working fpdc around the center 6 stitches of the top side: ch 1, sc across first 9 sts, then fpdc in next 6 sts (this raises the center), sc in remaining 9 sts. Sl st to join. (24)
Round 8 :
To form the long point at top: ch 3, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog around next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in last st, sl st. This draws both ends towards a point; block flat to emphasize the leaf shape.
Round 9 :
Edge round: 1 sc in each st around, making 3 sc in each point tip to keep edges crisp (24). Fasten off and weave tail, leaving long tail for joining if you prefer whipstitch joins later.
Info :
Repeat this motif 36 times across the three colors. Keep motifs consistent by making small batches of each color: I recommend making 4-8 at a time and blocking before joining.
Round 10 :
Optional decorative picot tip: If you want a tiny picot at each leaf point, reattach yarn at tip and work (sc, ch 3, sl st into sc) to create a delicate point. Repeat on both tips of the diamond. This adds vintage charm and helps motif edges tuck under during assembly.
Info :
Block each motif to identical dimensions — pin them to the same template (for example 8 cm tip-to-tip) to ensure the final medallion lies flat and symmetric when assembled.
— Inner Connector Motifs (Small Squares - Make 16) :
Round 1 :
These are small 4-round squares worked to fill gaps between leaves. MR, ch 1, 8 sc in ring. (8)
Round 2 :
2 sc in each st around (16).
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 2 sc in next st) x 8. (24)
Round 4 :
1 sc in each st BLO around to create a ridge for easier joining (24). Fasten off and weave ends. Make 16 of these in mixed accent colors as shown in the photograph.
Info :
These small squares act as little stepping stones between the leaves and fill tiny holes while contributing to that stepped leaf-edge look in the picture.
— Joining & Assembly (Join-As-You-Go + Sew) :
Info :
Layout map: Place the center medallion, then join 8 leaf motifs around each petal cup. The first ring consists of 8 leaf motifs. The second ring is staggered and made of 16 leaf motifs (connect tips of first ring to centers of second), and the outer ring is made of 12 larger leaves plus 16 small squares filling the staggered gaps. The exact counts may be altered for desired diameter; this pattern follows the photograph: center medallion + 8 (first ring) + 16 (second ring) + 12 outer leaves + 16 small squares.
Round 1 :
Attach the first leaf motif to a medallion cup using join-as-you-go: Hold the leaf with the right side facing you and place its inner short edge along the medallion cup. With RS together, insert hook through medallion cup edge and corresponding st on leaf edge, pull up a loop with color A, ch 1, sc through both layers across the inner edge, working 6 sc to secure the leaf inner edge into the cup. This anchors leaf securely and leaves outer edge free. Repeat with the remaining 7 petals. The join is subtle and invisible if tension is even.
Info :
Keep joins as flat as possible. Use pins to hold motif in place, then sc evenly — avoid stretching either piece. Work slowly for consistent seam tension.
Round 2 :
After the first ring is attached, orient the second ring motifs so each second-ring leaf sits staggered between two first-ring leaves. Align second-ring leaf inner edge to join along the ch-3 spacer between petal tips on medallion and to the exposed side edges of the two adjacent first-ring leaves. Use slip stitch joins through two layers from edge to edge or use a mattress stitch with yarn needle if you prefer invisible seaming. Repeat around (16 joins total).
Round 3 :
When joining second ring to neighboring motif tips, work these connections: at each contact point, sc through both motifs for 3-5 stitches, then shift to next contact point. This gives a stepped, tile-like connection reminiscent of overlapping leaves in the photo.
Info :
Some joins will be at shallow angles. Use small whipstitches (yarn needle) rather than sc in tight corners to avoid bulging seams. Weave a few extra passes at high-tension points to secure the runner for use.
Round 4 :
Add the small connector squares to the outer ring gaps: place a square with its corners touching the nearby leaf points, then stitch through both layers with slip stitches around the square edge. These fill the staggered spaces and create crisp outer jagged edge like the photographed runner. Make sure squares sit flat by pulling gently at joins while stitching.
Round 5 :
Secure all joins by running a single round of slip stitches around all internal seams on the back side (RS facing down) to lock every joint. Work slowly and evenly. This backstitching prevents motifs from shifting with use and washes.
Info :
If you prefer an invisible join, sew with a yarn needle using a mattress stitch; for faster assembly use a crochet join with a matching color. Mark the positions with pins before final stitching for an even finished shape.
Round 6 :
After all motifs are joined, examine the circular shape. If there are small holes or uneven gaps, stitch in small filler chains (ch 3, sl st) or place extra small squares made from tiny MR rounds until gaps look uniform. Secure with hidden whipstitch.
Info :
Assembly is the most time-consuming part. Lay the work flat often and realign pins to keep symmetry. Use a printed layout diagram to maintain precise color placement matching the photograph’s radiating design.
— Outer Border & Scallop Edging :
Round 1 :
Once all motifs are joined and seams secured, pick a unifying border color (I recommend the deep chocolate brown). Join at any outer edge stitch by sl st and ch 2, then 1 hdc in each stitch around the entire outer perimeter to build a continuous edge. Depending on overall stitch count, you will have roughly 160-220 hdc around the outermost edge (this depends on motif count; stitch evenly across points and fill ins). Work slowly to maintain even coverage around jagged edges.
Info :
When working across pointed tips, make 3 hdc in tip stitches so scallop later sits properly. In concave spaces, skip one stitch and place 2 hdc into the next to avoid puckering.
Round 2 :
Scalloped edge round: *skip next hdc, work 5 dc in next hdc, skip next hdc, sl st into next hdc* repeat around. This creates a series of shells echoing leaf tips. The count of shells should be even; adjust by adding or removing single hdc between shells to fit edge stitch count. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Round 3 :
Optional decorative final round: With the same border color or a lighter contrast, work 1 sc in each st around the scallops, and at the peak of each shell work a tiny picot (sc, ch 3, sl st into sc) for a delicate finish. This adds crispness to each point and refines the silhouette seen in the photograph.
Info :
Try the runner on your table before fastening off borders — this helps you decide whether a narrower or wider border suits your table scale. You can add an extra scallop or a second scallop row for a larger dresser scarf.
— Blocking, Finishing & Care :
Round 1 :
Block the entire runner by pinning it to a flat blocking board, stretching gently to emphasize points. Use steam from an iron (do NOT press directly; hover and steam) or spray with water and let dry overnight. Blocking sharpens the leaf points and levels seam tension.
Info :
Place blocking wires along long points for a crisp finish. If you prefer softer points, block less aggressively and allow slight natural curvature.
Round 2 :
Weave in all tails on the wrong side using a long tapestry needle; bury ends through multiple joins to avoid them pulling out. Trim any excess closely but carefully.
Round 3 :
Final pressing: Lay a clean cloth over the runner and very lightly press with a warm iron to relax fibers and set the blocking. Do not overheat yarn to avoid flattening the texture.
Info :
Hand wash gently in cool water with mild detergent if needed. Lay flat to dry to maintain shape. Wool blends may feel softer after blocking but dry cleaning is not necessary for acrylic/worsted blends.
— Optional Variations & Adjustments :
Variation 1 :
Create a longer runner by adding additional rings of motifs following the same staggered layout; add another ring of 24 leaves and supporting small squares, then repeat border rounds to finish. Each ring adds roughly 8-12 inches to diameter depending on motif size.
Variation 2 :
Make a placemat-size version by using only the center medallion plus one ring of 8 motifs. Adjust border to small scallops to keep scale consistent.
Info :
To scale motifs up or down, use different hook sizes: larger hook increases dimensions and produces more drape; smaller hook tightens fabric and increases crispness of points.
Completing this runner brings such a cozy, handmade warmth to any table — each leaf adds texture and autumn color to create a beautiful seasonal centerpiece. The join-as-you-go assembly is meditative and rewarding, and blocking transforms the piece into a professional-looking runner. Enjoy arranging it for holiday gatherings or gifting it as a thoughtful handmade home accent. 🍁🧶
