Create a warm, autumn-ready table runner featuring five raised pumpkin appliques set on a delicate lattice background and finished with a scalloped edge. The runner showcases textured vertical pumpkin ribs, curled stems, and leafy accents in classic orange, brown and green. This versatile pattern works well for seasonal décor or as a handmade gift that lights up any harvest table.
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— Overview :
Info :
This pattern is organized into separate components: Lattice Panel (background), Pumpkin Appliques (Make 5), Pumpkin Stems (Make 5), Leaves (Make 10), and Scalloped Border. Work each component as instructed, block the lattice panel, then arrange and sew pumpkins into place before adding the scalloped border for a neat finish.
— Lattice Background Panel :
Foundation :
Ch 121 (this creates a runner approximately 13-14 inches wide depending on gauge; adjust in multiples of 6+1 for wider/narrower runner)
Row 1 :
In 4th ch from hook, dc, ch2, sk2, *dc in next ch, ch2, sk2; rep from * across, ending last dc in last ch. Turn. (Approximately 40 dc and 39 ch-2 spaces across)
Row 2 :
Ch3 (counts as dc), dc in first ch-2 space, ch2, dc in same ch-2 space, *dc in next ch-2 space, ch2, dc in same ch-2 space; rep from * across, ending with dc in top of turning ch. Turn.
Row 3 :
Ch1, sc across each dc and ch-2 group across placing 1 sc in the center of each mesh to create a tidy row (maintain sc across tops to stabilize). Turn.
Rows 4-6 :
Repeat Rows 2-3 twice more to set up lattice foundation (this is the base repeat that creates stable mesh). Maintain counts visually; each mesh column remains established.
Info :
These first rows set the base for the lattice and stabilize edges. Keep tension moderate to allow the meshes to open but remain uniform. Place stitch markers at the edges every 10-12 rows to maintain straight sides.
Rows 7-60 :
Work repeat: Row A: Ch3, dc in first ch-2 space, ch2, dc in same space, *dc in next ch-2 space, ch2, dc in same space; rep across. Turn. Row B: Ch1, sc across each st placing 1 sc in center of each ch-2 mesh. Turn. Repeat Row A then Row B until you have worked 54 total mesh rows after the foundation (approximately 60 rows total panel height). End on a Row B (sc row).
Info :
Measure the panel as you go; adjust row count to reach desired runner length. Blocking after finishing will help square the panel and open the mesh uniformly. Mark the positions of the five pumpkin placements now: measure and mark centers at equal intervals along centerline of the panel (for 5 pumpkins on a 60-row panel, place centers approximately every 9-10 rows vertically; horizontally center pumpkins across width).
— Pumpkin Applique: Pumpkin Body (Make 5 identical) :
Round 1 :
Using pumpkin orange and 3.5mm hook: mr, 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7 :
(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8 :
(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
Round 9 :
(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
Round 10 :
(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)
Info :
At Round 10 you should have a smooth circular disc about the diameter of the pumpkin base. Use markers to note the front and back if you prefer symmetrical rib placement later. Work tightly through the magic ring to avoid a hole in the center; pull ring snug and weave in end later.
Rounds 11-16 :
1 sc in each st around (60) — 6 rounds to build height (Rounds 11,12,13,14,15,16)
Info :
These rounds create the bulk of the pumpkin face. Keep tension even. You can stop here for a flatter applique, or continue to sculpt the pumpkin with ribs and a slight dome.
Round 17 :
(4 sc, fpdc around next st) x 10 (60)
Round 18 :
1 sc in each st (60)
Round 19 :
(3 sc, fpdc around next st) x 12 (60)
Round 20 :
1 sc in each st (60)
Info :
Rounds using front post double crochet (fpdc) create raised columns that will become the vertical ribs of the pumpkin. Work the fpdc by yarning over, inserting hook from front to back around the post of the stitch specified, yarn over and complete a dc — this wraps the stitch as a raised post. Keep your posts consistent in height and tension.
Round 21 :
(2 sc, fpdc around next st, 1 sc) x 12 (60)
Round 22 :
1 sc in each st (60)
Round 23 :
(1 sc, fpdc around next st, 2 sc) x 12 (60)
Round 24 :
1 sc in each st (60)
Info :
Alternate fpdc rounds with sc rounds to build textured ribs; the fpdc columns become more pronounced with multiple fpdc rounds spaced with sc rows. You can add one or two additional fpdc rows if you want extra height on each rib before decreasing for shape.
Round 25 :
(8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)
Round 26 :
(7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)
Info :
Begin gentle decreases to create a slight dome to the pumpkin. Stuffing will be minimal for appliques — use a small round of batting or a tablespoon of fiberfill placed under the center after Round 28 for subtle puffing.
Round 27 :
(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
Round 28 :
(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
Round 29 :
(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Round 30 :
(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 31 :
(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Round 32 :
(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Info :
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Before closing fully, place a small round of batting or very light stuffing into the center for a slightly puffed pumpkin look, then use the tail to sew the final hole closed with running stitch and weave in end to center underside.
— Pumpkin Ridges (detail work for each Pumpkin) :
Info :
Ridges are emphasized by surface slip stitches and a second-color shadowing if desired. Work surface technique onto the pumpkin after it is finished but before sewing to background, or you can work the surface ridges onto the pumpkin once sewn to the lattice — both methods work. The following adds shadowing and raised ridge detail using a darker orange or rust in a surface loop technique.
Step 1 :
With darker orange and tapestry needle, pick up yarn at the center top edge of the pumpkin and pull yarn to underside leaving a short tail for weaving. Work surface slip stitch (sl st) lines from top center to bottom perimeter following the channels created by fpdc columns: make 10 to 12 evenly spaced radial lines.
Step 2 :
Surface sl st: Insert hook from front to back at top center, pull up a loop, bring loop to bottom and insert at desired bottom point, sl st to secure. Repeat for each ridge. Keep tension loose enough to sit on top of the work without pulling the fabric in.
Info :
Surface slip stitches are forgiving and create tidy shadow ridges; you can also use embroidery stitch (long satin stitch) but sl st is quick and durable for use on a table runner where wear is expected.
— Pumpkin Stem (Make 5) :
Round 1 :
Using dark brown and 3.5mm hook: mr, 6 sc in ring (6)
Round 2 :
1 sc in each st around (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
Rounds 4-7 :
1 sc in each st around (9) — 4 rounds to give stem length and slight barrel shape
Round 8 :
(1 sc, dec) x 3 (6)
Info :
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. To create a curled stem, lightly stuff the stem and then use the long tail to stitch through the inside and curve the stem as you sew it to the pumpkin top. Optionally block the stem around a small dowel to create a tighter curl.
— Pumpkin Leaves (Make 10) :
Leaf 1 - Round 1 :
Using leaf green and 3.5mm hook: ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next, tr in next, hdc in same ch as tr to form tip, turn and sl st down the opposite side inserting st size-wise to form a pointed leaf; fasten off (5 sts total tip)
Info :
These small leaves are worked flat and then slightly shaped by pulling edges toward center when sewing; make 2 leaves for each pumpkin and sew them under the stem for a natural look. Varying stitch counts (ch5 or ch7) makes smaller or larger leaves.
— Assembly: Placing Pumpkins onto Lattice Panel :
Info :
Block and flatten the lattice panel first so it lies square. Mark centerline and the five pumpkin center points evenly spaced along the center column. Measure equal top and bottom margins. A good spacing is approximately 8-10 rows between pumpkin centers depending on your panel height.
Step 1 :
Lay the lattice panel flat on your blocking mat. Position first pumpkin centered horizontally and with its top aligning to the first marked center row. Pin in place using rust-proof pins through the underside of the lattice into the pumpkin edges, spacing pins every 8-10 stitches.
Step 2 :
Sew each pumpkin using long tail from finishing round or a matching yarn strand: whip stitch around the perimeter through the back loops of the pumpkin and around 1-2 mesh stitches of panel for a secure, slightly invisible seam. Use small, even stitches to keep seam tidy.
Info :
Leave a small opening at the center underside if you want to add a tiny bit of batting for extra puff; otherwise the slight dome from shaping is sufficient. Repeat positioning for all five pumpkins making sure spacing is identical between each center with a tape measure.
— Adding Stems and Leaves :
Step 1 :
Position stem at top center of each pumpkin. Using the long tail from the stem or a separate matching strand, sew the stem securely through the pumpkin's top through to the lattice panel; stitch several times through the base to stabilize curl and orientation.
Step 2 :
Sew two leaves at the base of each stem using invisible stitches so the leaves sit slightly behind and to the side of the stem. Tug gently to curve leaf tips slightly outward for a natural effect.
Info :
Position the stem curl so it points consistently toward the upper side of the runner for a cohesive aesthetic. Use small anchor stitches in the lattice behind the pumpkin to secure any part of the motif that tends to lift.
— Surface Detail and Vine Accents :
Step 1 :
With green or brown, embroider short vine loops connecting pumpkins optionally: use chain stitch or surface chain with yarn needle to create light connecting vines. Keep vines subtle; they are decorative only and not structural.
Info :
Vine accents help tie the panel visually across the length; however, if you prefer a cleaner modern look, skip vine embroidery and rely on borders to frame pumpkins.
— Scalloped Border :
Info :
Use the same cream/ivory yarn as the lattice or switch to a complementary rust/orange for a bolder edge. Block the panel and leave it pinned. Work border around entire perimeter once pumpkins are sewn in place.
Round 1 :
Join cream yarn at a corner with sl st, ch1, sc evenly along edge placing approximately 1 sc per 2 rows or 1 sc in each side st depending on edge count. Work 3 sc in each corner to continue smoothly. Join with sl st to first sc. (Edge sc count varies by panel width)
Round 2 :
Ch3 (counts as dc), *skip next sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell), skip next sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * around, making 3 shells in each corner. Join with sl st to ch3.
Round 3 :
Switch to contrasting orange if desired: in each shell, sl st into center dc, ch3, 4 dc in same st, sl st to join to form scallop. Work a single sc between shells to give spacing. Join and fasten off. Weave in ends.
Info :
Scallop counts depend on original panel edge stitch count; adjust shell frequency so scallops are evenly distributed. If you desire smaller scallops, reduce shells to 3 dc each instead of 5 dc.
— Final Finishing :
Step 1 :
Weave in all tails with yarn needle; bury ends at least 2 inches into work and trim close. Make sure no loose ends are visible on the right side.
Step 2 :
Lightly steam block or wet block the entire runner ensuring the lattice opens and scallops lay flat. Pin scallops evenly around edge while drying for consistent shape.
Info :
Double-check all sewn seams for security and add a few reinforcing stitches where pumpkins meet the lattice if needed; a table runner will be handled and should be sturdy around motif edges.
— OPTIONAL: Alternate Pumpkin (More Puff) :
Info :
For a puffier pumpkin, after Round 16 insert a small disk of dense batting and very lightly stuff the surrounding area. Continue fpdc rounds as written, then when decreasing, leave a small opening and tack the base of the batting to the lattice to prevent slippage before finishing the closure.
Info :
If you wish to make the pumpkins fully 3-D and not appliques, follow the Pumpkin Body rounds through Round 33, but do NOT fasten off. Instead, crochet a joining round of sc around the base and then crochet a short skirt to attach to the lattice with sl st, leaving the bottom rounded and closed; this is a more advanced variation and will require additional stuffing and anchoring.
This pumpkin table runner adds cozy fall charm to any surface and comes together in satisfying steps. The textured pumpkin ribs and airy lattice create a beautiful contrast, while the scalloped edge gives a finished, handcrafted look. I hope this pattern inspires warm gatherings and joyful decorating — enjoy every stitch and the seasonal cheer it brings to your home! 🍁🧡
