Create a dramatic Halloween table runner featuring a lacy spiderweb center panel edged with pumpkins, floating ghosts, layered flowers and leafy vines. The runner shown uses ecru for the web, bright orange pumpkins, soft white ghosts and pops of purple and green for floral accents. This pattern includes detailed motif instructions, joining and a decorative picot edge for a finished seasonal centerpiece.
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— Spiderweb Center Panel :
Info :
This runner's central structure is made from a long diamond/oval spiderweb motif worked flat and then mirrored to create a long runner. Work the central spiderweb in ecru/cream. Use 3.5mm hook for an open airy look; if your gauge is loose, drop to 3.25mm. Block each panel flat before joining.
Round 1 :
Start with magic ring, ch3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc into ring, join with sl st to top of ch3 (12 dc) — forming central circle (12)
Round 2 :
ch3, dc in same st, *ch3, sk 1 st, dc in next st* rep around to create 6 ch3 loops separated by dc (12 dc, 6 ch-arches)
Round 3 :
Join in each ch3 loop: *(sl st into loop, ch4, (tr, ch2, tr) into same loop, ch4, sl st into center dc between loops) repeat around to establish first set of spokes and arches — you should have 6 spokes
Info :
Keep tension even on tall stitches — these treble arches form the first visible web spokes. Use stitch marker at the start of the round to keep count.
Round 4 :
Working from right side: From center dc between spokes, ch6, sl st in next center dc, *ch6, sl st in next center dc* repeat around (6 long chain loops total). These chains are your first long web arches (no stitch count change).
Round 5 :
In each ch6 loop work: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (7 stitches into each loop) to flesh the web arch. Maintain 6 arch groups (42 new stitches distributed on arches)
Info :
Use a smaller hook for arch fill if you prefer tighter lace detail; don't fasten off. The arches will expand the web width — check that your starting circle is centered on your workspace.
Round 6 :
Between each arch group, work ch3 and sl st into the next base point to create connecting chain spokes (6 chain spokes). This begins the layered web effect.
Round 7 :
Working into each of the 6 ch3 spokes: (dc, ch3, dc) into base st; between spokes work 5 dc evenly into gaps to create the first mid-row of radial dc. Total radial dc will equal approx 36 depending on even distribution.
Round 8 :
Form second ring of arches: In each space between radial dc groups, ch8, sl st to next space (6 ch8 loops).
Round 9 :
Fill each ch8 loop with: sl st, sc, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sc, sl st (9 sts per loop). This expands web to a larger diameter; keep symmetry by counting stitches per loop.
Info :
If you prefer a more open web, use (sc, hdc, ch2, hdc, sc) into each ch8 loop instead — this reduces height and keeps openness.
Round 10 :
Working roundly to create connecting spokes: between each filled loop work ch5 then sl st into the next fill base, creating 6 longer connecting chains for the next arch row.
Round 11 :
In each ch5 loop: sl st, sc, hdc, (dc x3) forming a little fan of stitches (approx 6 fans). This begins the elongated web 'vein' structure that will carry outward.
Round 12 :
Now create the long central ribwork: From the central circle, count over to the first spoke and join yarn. Ch18, sl st to the mirror spoke base across the medallion (this creates one long rib). Repeat to total 6 long ribs radiating from center. Adjust chain length if your piece is stretching too far; 18 chains is approximate for the shown scale.
Info :
These long chains determine the runner length and shape. For a longer runner, increase ch length by 4-6 chains per rib and add extra arch rounds later. Keep all ribs identical length for symmetry.
Round 13 :
Work along each long rib: starting at center, sl st into rib chain at ch4, *ch5, sl st into rib at ch9, repeat along to create spacing points along the chain for arches (about 3-4 spacing points per rib depending on length).
Round 14 :
Between each pair of adjacent ribs, work chain arches connecting spacing points: (sl st into spacing point A, ch7, sl st into spacing point B). Repeat around each rib pair forming the web grid. This produces multiple oval-shaped web cells along the runner.
Round 15 :
Fill each ch7 loop with sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (7 sts). Work all arches consistently to keep a flat fabric. Count to maintain an even number of filled arches along each web lane.
Info :
Check that the stitched web lies flat periodically; if it curls, gently block before continuing. You can pin the piece to a blocking mat and steam lightly if needed.
Round 16 :
Work a decorative half-arch row between large arches: ch4, sl st into center points between arches around the long runner to create a scalloped inner detail.
Round 17 :
Repeat a fill (sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st) into each ch4 small loop. This forms inner chains between larger arches and stabilizes the web.
Round 18 :
At the outer edges of the rib lanes, work ch6 loops connecting to the outer radial chain points to start the outermost web border. Place these loops evenly for consistent scallops.
Round 19 :
Fill ch6 loops with sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (7 sts per loop). This creates a final ring of arches around each rib lane and completes the major web structure for one panel.
Info :
This completes one diamond/oval web panel. For the shown runner repeat this exact panel and mirror-join two identical panels centre-to-centre to create the long runner shape. Blocking both panels before joining will ease joining and ensure symmetry.
Round 20 :
Optional reinforcement row: Around entire panel edge, sc evenly across outer foundations (approx 120-150 sc depending on scale). Use BLO for a thin ridge: 1 sc in each st BLO to create a stable edge for applique joining.
Info :
Make two identical panels using the above sequence and block both to exactly the same dimensions. When joining panels end-to-end, use sl st join along the central outer rib chains or sew with mattress stitch for a flat invisible seam.
— Pumpkin Applique (Make 4) :
Info :
Each pumpkin is a slightly domed motif with vertical ribbing using BLO to simulate ribs. Use orange worsted yarn and 3.25mm hook. Make 4 pumpkins of slightly varying sizes for interest — follow rounds below to create three sizes by repeating fewer outer rounds for smaller pumpkins.
Round 1 :
Magic ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6)
Round 2 :
6 inc around (12)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
Info :
Stuff very lightly to give a low relief. Do not overstuff if you want the pumpkin to lay flat on the runner. Leave center slightly hollow for a subtle concave top.
Round 6 :
1 sc in each st (30)
Round 7 :
Switch to BLO: 1 sc in each st BLO (30) — this creates ribs that will be worked up to make raised vertical ridges.
Round 8 :
Working in FLO now, ch1, *sl st in next st, ch3, sl st in same st* repeat around 30 times to create 30 small chain loops used as rib anchors. Fasten off and weave ends.
Round 9 :
Join yarn at top of pumpkin and work vertical ribbing: Using front post hdc around each BLO sc from Round 7 to pull a raised ridge; work 30 fphdc around each BLO to form distinct ribs. Do not change count (30 ribs).
Info :
For larger pumpkins: after Round 9 add an outer round of (sc, ch2, sc) between ribs to widen the pumpkin; for small pumpkins skip the outer widening. Keep ribs visible by alternating post stitches with regular sc rows.
Round 10 :
Form pumpkin edge: sc around evenly, working 2 sc in some spaces to flatten edges if needed. Aim for 30-36 sc total depending on required diameter.
Round 11 :
Make stem: Join dark green yarn at top center, ch1, 6 sc in magic ring for stub stem, 2 rounds sc (6), flatten and sl st back down to pumpkin top to attach. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Info :
Lightly stitch the pumpkin to the web using the foundation edge from Round 10. Slightly flatten the base when sewing so pumpkins sit low and visually integrated with the web surface.
— Ghost Applique (Make 4) :
Info :
Ghosts are slightly ruffled flat motifs worked in white with a scalloped lower edge and small black felt or embroidered eyes. Use 3.25mm hook for a slightly compact look.
Round 1 :
Magic ring, ch1, 6 sc in ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4 :
1 sc in each st (18)
Info :
From here we will shape the ghost head and flare the bottom with scallops that mimic a flowing sheet. Embroider eyes after blocking and before attaching to runner.
Round 5 :
ch1, (sc, ch3, sc) in next st, *sk 1 st, (sc, ch3, sc) in next st* rep around for scalloped skirt (approx 9 scallops)
Round 6 :
Into each ch3 loop work (sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st) to create fuller scallops — maintain same count (9 scallops)
Round 7 :
Work a last decorative ridge: sc around entire ghost edge in back loops only to create a subtle ruffled hem (approx 36 sc).
Info :
Eyes: Use small 8mm black safety eyes placed between Rounds 2-3, spaced 4-5 sts apart depending on desired expression, or embroider oval eyes with black yarn. If using safety eyes, fix them before stuffing (if using a tiny amount of stuffing for slight dimensional effect).
Round 8 :
Optional light stuffing: Insert a small flat disc of fiberfill under head to keep slight dome, then fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.
Info :
Sew ghosts to the web at chosen positions so they ‘float’ above the web; a small ladder stitch through the web foundation points anchors them cleanly.
— Layered Flower Motifs (Make assorted sizes) :
Info :
Flowers are worked in two or three layers: center disc (yellow), petal layer (purple or orange), then optional ruffle accent in contrasting color. Use 3.25mm hook. Make 6-10 flowers total in varying sizes and color combos to match photo.
Round 1 (Center) :
With yellow, magic ring ch1, 6 sc in ring (6). Join and fasten off leaving tail for sewing to next layer.
Round 2 (Petal Layer) :
Join petal color in any st, *ch2, 3 dc into same st, ch2, sl st in next st* repeat around to create 6 petals (6 full petals). Fasten off or continue to next layer.
Round 3 (Optional Outer Ruffle) :
Join contrasting color in back of petal base, *ch3, (dc, dc, dc) in top of petal, ch3, sl st in base between petals* repeat around for a fuller bloom (6 petals). Fasten off leaving long tail for attaching to runner.
Info :
For smaller filler flowers, work a simple 6-petal motif: magic ring, (ch2, 3 dc, sl st) x6. Block lightly to shape petals before attaching.
— Leaf & Vine Motifs :
Info :
Create vines by working foundation chains that are then embellished with small leaf motifs attached along. Use olive and darker green for variation. Leaves are worked flat and joined to the chain with sl sts or sew them in place later.
Leaf 1 :
With green yarn ch8, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st back down the opposite side of the chain into remaining chains to form a mirrored leaf (approx 10 sts). Fasten off and block flat.
Leaf 2 (Larger) :
ch10, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st back down opposite side for bigger leaf. Add small picot at tip with ch3, sl st into base for decorative point.
Info :
Make multiple leaf sizes and group them in 2-4 leaf clusters for a natural vine look. Vines should be long enough to weave around pumpkins and flowers; create 6-8 vine lengths depending on runner length.
— Joining Motifs & Layout :
Info :
Lay out your blocked spiderweb panels side-by-side to match the photo: pumpkins alternating left and right along outer edges, ghosts staggered, flowers and leaf clusters filling gaps and creating a flowing border. Pin all motifs in place before joining.
Round Join 1 :
Using ecru, work a sl st join through the outer sc edging of the web panel and the back loops of each applique edge, working from right to left and fastening down evenly — use small, nearly invisible stitches for a flat finish.
Round Join 2 :
Where two motifs meet (pumpkin to vine, vine to flower): use whip stitch with matching yarn to sew motifs together, securing at 6-8 points around the motif edge. Keep stitches shallow so they do not show on the front.
Info :
For some motifs you may crochet them directly onto the web by joining with sl st into web foundation points; for others, sew them on after to allow placement flexibility.
— Outer Scalloped Border & Picot Edge :
Round 1 :
With orange yarn, join at an outermost web edge point. *ch4, sl st into next outer anchor point, repeat across entire outer edge producing orange picot scallops. Work approx 120-160 ch4 loops depending on edge length.
Round 2 :
Fill each ch4 loop with (sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st) to form small scallops. Maintain even stitch count to keep a smooth border.
Round 3 :
To create a layered green vine effect: in between each orange scallop join green yarn and work a small leaf cluster (ch2, sc, ch2, sl st) making 1-2 leaves between scallops for a leafy fringe. Alternate colors for visual texture.
Info :
Edge placement: ensure pumpkins and ghosts slightly overlap the scalloped border so motifs appear integrated rather than floating. Pin motifs and edges simultaneously to avoid uneven spacing.
— Decorative Embellishments & Final Touches :
Round 1 :
Embroider small vine tendrils from pumpkin stems in darker green using surface slip stitches for added depth. Use 2-3 tendrils per pumpkin as seen in the photo.
Round 2 :
Sew small yellow centers on purple flowers using a few stitches of yellow yarn into the center disc then secure to web area. Add French knot style tiny stitches for texture if desired.
Info :
If you want a subtle raised look for pumpkins and ghosts, insert a thin layer of fiberfill then baste the outer edge closed. Keep filler light to preserve the runner lying flat.
Blocking & Finishing :
Block entire finished runner by pinning to required dimensions on a flat surface and lightly misting or using steam (no direct iron). Allow to dry fully. Weave in all ends and trim flush. Optionally press under a towel for a flat finish.
Final Info :
Allow the runner to rest for 24 hours after blocking before moving. If storing between seasons, place flat or gently rolled with acid-free tissue to retain shape. Spot clean with mild soap and cold water as needed; avoid machine washing to preserve appliques.
This Spiderweb Halloween Table Runner is a lovely way to bring handcrafted seasonal charm to your home 🕸️🎃. Every applique and scallop adds character — from the ribbed pumpkins to the floating ghosts and layered flowers. The modular construction makes it easy to personalize colors and placement for your own table. Enjoy the meditative stitching and the delight of seeing the runner come together; it makes a beautiful centerpiece for Halloween gatherings! 🧶✨
